Yesterday (June 2nd) Joe, Beth and myself used AMS's drop tower to test the strength of zip-ties incorporated into the the sled hauling system for expedition/glacier travel.
We were trying to determine how many zip-ties it would require to hold the static weight of a loaded expedition sled and at what point they would fail in the event of a crevasse fall.
We used two different width zip-ties as a single and a double.
After many drop tests and static loads we determined the ideal setup would be to use two of the wider zip-ties to shorten the length of the sled haul to create a breakable link in the system to allow the weight of the sled to be transfered to rope instead of continuing to pull on the climbers pack after a crevasse fall.
This system is used by a few guide company's on the mountain, and to our knowledge, has not been tested for static and dynamic loads (only live field testing).
Getting ready to drop-test the sled haul with zip-ties.
(Photo courtesy of Joe Butler)

Happy June!
Today is already the 3rd of June if you can believe it. Time is flying by up here in Talkeenta. We've been out now for almost a week from our (Todd Passey, Dusty Eroh and myself) from our successful climb of the West Buttress of Denali with Ken and Carlos. The first week of the trip was spent traveling low on the mountain in a complete whiteout. Once we made it past camp 2 at 11,200' the weather starting clearing and we had almost ideal weather for the reamainder of our trip.
On May 24th the five of us along with two other AMS (Alaska Mountaineering School) groups made a push for the summit. That afternoon all three groups made the summit and successfully descended back to high camp at 17,200'.
We'er all back safe and sound, some back to the lower 48 some still here in AK enjoying our time off until we head back up on the mountain.
The weather in Talkeetna has been incredible, lost of sun and incredible views of the mountain from the three rivers confluence (Susitna, Chulitna and Talkeetna rivers).


String of people up Motorcycle Hill leaving camp 2 @ 11,200'


Looking back on camp 3 (14,200') from the bottom of the fixed lines.


Dusty on the first section of the fixed lines above camp 3.


Looking back at the last section of the ridge before camp 4 @ 17,200'.


Looking up at Pig Hill, the last big push before the summit ridge.
Nate Opp's group is out in the distance.


Me on the summit (20,320').


360 view from the top of North America! (pardon the language)

Greeting from Talkeetna!
Today is the 4th day in a row with superb weather in town and from what we've heard, the mountains as well. On Tuesday Nick D. and myself escorted the (hopefully soon-to-be) youngest Indian woman to climb all 7 summits. It was a georgeous day to ski up the upper Kahiltna too Camp 1 at the base of Ski Hill. Once there she settled into her tent and Nick and I turned around and made quick work of the 6 mile journey back to Base Camp to catch the last flight out that night.


On our way to Camp 1. The low point in the distance is Kahiltna Pass. Camp 1 is at the bottom of the hill infront of the pass.


Taking a break on the five and a half journey from Base Camp to Camp 1. Notice the lack of clouds!

Tomorrow (5/9) Todd, Dusty and myself are schudled to depart with Ken and Carlos to have another shot at the West Buttress on Denali. We've had a leisurly couple of days of food and gear packing and weather permitting, fly tomorrow afternoon for the 21 day climb.

Cheers,
Alex

Brian and myself at 2:00 AM working on student evaluations.


The group on the East summit of Control Tower.


Everyone inside our snow cave at Base Camp.



Our ride in on the first day of the course.


Dan Corn, Brian Skean and myself recently returned to Talkeetna after a successful 12 day mountaineering course on the Southeast Fork of the Kahiltna Glacier. The three of us had 7 students fron Alaska and one from Denmark. We had weather ranging from -35 to 50 and sunny. We were unable to get to some of our pre-planned objectives due to 2+ meters of fresh snow that produced unstable and unsafe conditions for climbing. On the second to last day we were able to successfully climb a smaller peak in the middle of the Southeast Fork called Control Tower.

Now back safe and sound in Talkeetna for a little over a week for some R&R then back-to-back West Buttress climbs through the end of June.

Cheers.

Summer season 2010 in AK

Today is my last day in the lower 48 for the next couple of months. Tomorrow I fly North to Anchorage and get the pleasure of hanging out with Ian and Mary Virginia and of course the new addition to the family, Atticus! I'm excited to not only see family but also to be back in Alaska for whats shaping up to be a great season.

On Saturday (4/18) Dan, Brian and myself are schudled to fly into the Alaska range to run a 12 day mountaineering seminar for the ever popular AMS. This should be an excellent adventure and learning experience for everyone. After the 12 day seminar there will be 5 days of down time to enjoy all that a Talkeetna spring has to offer. Then back into the range for another shot at the West Buttress with Todd, Ken and Carlos. This year should be even better than last years attempt. We have all been training hard and everyone is really excited for this second opportunity.

Thats all for now. Should have more stories and photos in early May and again in early June.

"The greatest lesson in life is to know that even fools are right sometimes."
-- Winston Churchill